How to install steel basement door

The grinder is throwing off a shower of red-hot metal bits. This full face shield is what I prefer for this job. These metal rods are actually tension springs that help push the doors upward as they're opened. The rods are also what secure the door hinges to the frame. With all the fasteners gone, it's probably just corrosion that's holding the frame to the foundation.

Sure enough, with a little encouragement from a pry bar or two, the frame pops loose. All that remains is a piece of flashing under the shingles. A few taps with a hammer, and it's out. Well, this is the frame for my new basement door. It's from Bilco and it's made of high density polyethylene. I'm gonna set it in place right here and then double check to be sure that everything fits properly.

The new frame is slightly larger than the old one, so I trace the outline onto the wall -- then trim the shingles back, using a small battery-powered circular saw. Then I bring out my chisels, one of my favorite tools, and cut away the remaining shingles at the rounded corner. Next, I check to be sure the frame is square. If it's not, the doors won't fit properly.

Now the best way to do this is to measure from corner to corner and compare the results. If the frame is square, they'll be the same. Once I'm satisfied everything in in the right place, I mark the location of the mounting holes, using a felt tip pen. Now these are the marks I made by using a pen and tracing the slots on the frame. And what I was doing right here was taking a punch and making a small center mark right in there, just a slight depression, so that the drill bit won't wander because I'm going to have to drill holes here, into which I'll be inserting these plastic anchors.

Now I won't be using just any drill, but this drill right here. It's called a hammer drill. It actually hammers at the same time that it's rotating. It makes short work of going through concrete like this and it's outfitted with a carbide tip masonry drill bit here. Now I've got a piece of tape up here and that's a depth gauge so that I'll drill these holes at just the right depth to accept this plastic anchor.

When drilling in a masonry material like this, I always make sure to vacuum away the dust. Especially any that may have fallen back into the hole. It's almost impossible to properly insert an anchor in a hole that's filled with dust. Well, before I set the frame permanently into place, I want to apply silicone sealant.

By cutting the tip closer to the cartridge, I can get the heavy bead I want, on top of the foundation. Then, I ease the frame into position, press it firmly into the sealant and begin installing the screws. I place a second bead of sealant on the inside where the frame meets the foundation. By spraying on a lubricating solution, I can use my finger to tool the caulk and end up with a super smooth joint.

I also apply sealant to the head of the frame, where it meets the side of the house. Finally, I secure the metal threshold to the foundation. The frame is in, now it's time to put on the doors. These two are made from high density polyethylene and my first job here is to put on the hinges. The hinges are first attached to the doors --then the doors are set in place. Finally, the hinges are attached to the inside of the frame.

The polyethylene doors are much lighter than the steel ones I'm replacing. But to make the new doors even easier to operate, I'm installing gas cylinders that will slow the doors closing, then help to push them upward when they're open.

Now here's a nice feature. On both sides of the base, there's an opening, and you can handle this one of three ways. You can put in a clear panel and make it a small window, a solid panel, or, and this is what I'm gonna do in my case, a screen and vent. Well, I've got my new basement door. It won't ever rust, never needs painting, is safer for the kids and I think you'll agree, it's pretty darn good looking.

How to remove an old steel basement door and frame and replace it with a light weight, rust-proof polyethylene model. Matt used a self-tapping screw to attach the doorframe to the side panels and Beth secures the new header to the house. Okay, good, last piece of trim. Boy, remember what this looked like this morning? Replace a rotting wooden basement hatch door with a steel bulkhead basement door to keep out cold, moisture, and intruders and eliminate rotting wood that is a potential safety hazard and attraction to insects.

Home improvement stores offer several sizes of steel bulkhead basement door kits that are warranted for as long as 5 years and meet building code requirements. Remove the old doors as the first task in installing a new steel bulkhead basement door. Use a combination of tools and don't be afraid to improvise in removing rusted nuts and bolts on the old basement hatch doors. Use a nail puller and hammer to detach the flashing from the wooden hatch frame and house siding. We originally thought we needed to preserve the old waterproof flashing, but this new steel bulkhead basement door provides its own.

Prepare for the steel bulkhead basement door with pry bars to remove the rotted wooden side frames of the hatch from the concrete foundation and the old doorway header from the side of the house. Clean up debris. Position the foundation plate for the new steel basement bulkhead doors as the first part of the new installation. Mark holes for anchors. Pre-drill with hammer drill fitted with a carbide-tipped masonry bit. Align the steel bulkhead basement door foundation plate with the pre-drilled holes in the concrete foundation.

Hammer in masonry anchors into each hole to secure it. Place the steel bulkhead basement door's right side plate against the house and secure with screws. Attach the left side to the concrete foundation with more masonry anchors hammered through predrilled holes in plate. Position and attach the door frame for the steel bulkhead basement door. Ensure that everything is square and operates without binding before tightening the frame.

Use self-tapping screws to secure the frame to the side panels. Not everyone is in a position to do a project themselves. That's why I've partnered with HomeAdvisor Powered by Angi to provide you with free quotes from qualified local professionals.

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Thank you. Demolish That Rotten Wooden Basement Hatch and Replace It with an Efficient and Warranted Steel Bulkhead Basement Door Replace a rotting wooden basement hatch door with a steel bulkhead basement door to keep out cold, moisture, and intruders and eliminate rotting wood that is a potential safety hazard and attraction to insects. Step 2 Eliminate Flashing to Prepare for the Steel Bulkhead Basement Door Use a nail puller and hammer to detach the flashing from the wooden hatch frame and house siding.

Step 3 Demolish Hatch Frame to Prepare for Steel Bulkhead Basement Door Prepare for the steel bulkhead basement door with pry bars to remove the rotted wooden side frames of the hatch from the concrete foundation and the old doorway header from the side of the house.

Step 4 Position Foundation Plate for the Steel Basement Bulkhead Door Position the foundation plate for the new steel basement bulkhead doors as the first part of the new installation. Step 5 Secure the Steel Bulkhead Basement Door Foundation Plate Align the steel bulkhead basement door foundation plate with the pre-drilled holes in the concrete foundation.

Step 6 Secure Steel Bulkhead Basement Door Side Plates Place the steel bulkhead basement door's right side plate against the house and secure with screws.

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